Solidoodle 2 Pro 3D Printing: Frustrated

2014-01-19 11.09.56

I am having difficulty

  • My Lego-like pieces are not sticking to each other, let alone to regular Lego’s.
  • Many many of my prints are curling up from the bed.
  • My 4? 5? attempts at an iPhone case so far have been incorrectly sized
  • My hexagonal infill is not pretty.

Here is What I have Learned

  • When printing really large parts, be aware that ABS filament shrinks.  For example, the XY(Z) thing above was 2” while printing (measured with caliper), but as it cooled from 210C down to 27C, it shrunk to 1.98”. 
  • Enclosures are very important at keeping heat in, which helps a model not-shrink too quickly.  Quick shrinking can lead to bends in the structure.  
  • As the ABS shrinks, in larger parts, the top shrinkage can pull the bottom part off the bed.  There are ways around this.. rafts, permiters, skirts, windex cleaning, hairspray sticking, kapton tape, and the heated bed.. As of yet, i haven’t figured out which combination of things will get me a reliable bigger print.
  • The Doodle was pretty well configured when i got it.  And my tinkering has made it worse.  

Of Flow Rates and Stepper Motors, Oh My

As of right now, I’m refusing to learn how to flash/reprogram the eeprom in the doodle.    Luckily, the number of steps for the X Y and Z axes are almost dead on.    However, the filament stepper is not – its pulling definitely more than  120mm for every 100mm it ought to be pulling.

Luckily, there’s a setting in slic3r that accommodates that – Solidoodle’s config files shipped with a default 0.6 ratio.  The result, I thought, was a bit blobby while doing infill. Also, all the documentation said I should have a 0.4mm nozzle, but the configuration was set at 0.5mm;  likewise, I was using 1.75mm plastic, but the config said 1.68.   

So, i “fixed” them.    And slowly, as I scream in 40-minute-delayed frustration, I’m setting them all back.  

Luckily, that’s all I’ve had to deal with.  Here’s all the things that Solidoodle did RIGHT with the printer, that I have not had to deal with.

  • Correctly configured stepper motor sizes
  • Correct power levels for the X/Y/Z/etc motors.. potentiometers.. something something.
  • Belts are correctly tensioned
  • Bed is Level
  • Bed is appropriate distance away. 
  • Nozzle assembly, no jams.

So, GOOD JOB Solidoodle.  You did good work here.

Dealing with Spooling2014-01-19 11.35.47

The provided spool holder – bit of a nightmare.   It mounts to the back of the printer, but with the XY going all  over the place, and with a brand new spool, the slack allows the cable to “fall over” on itself, and it gets wrapped up on the spool handle.  My initial solution was to hang a bungee cord from the rafters (I’m in the basement) and run the filament through that – so that gravity is applying a tension for me.  

My wife came up with an even better idea: Suspending the Spool from the ceiling with the bungee cord.

Lost My Sense of Direction .. Finding It

I feel like I’ve lost my sense of direction.  Where am I trying to go with this printer, and how do I get there?

Part 1:  An Education

I’m definitely getting that.   Hoo boy.  And I’m glad for it.   At some time.. next week? next month? I’ll be giving a Lunch and Learn at work on some, or all, of this stuff.. and taking the printer in to work so that other folks can use it, possibly to print their own printers.    After what I’ve experienced, if I was to do this again, I’d plunk down the extra money and get an even more pre-built solution – like the Doodle ‘4.   I hate messing with stuff.   Good luck you guys.

Part 2: Specific Goals

To clear my head up .. which way do I need to / want to go?  I need to get this back to being a pleasurable experience, even if I’m failing along the way.  (As my wife would say, stop being a booger!) 

I Want To [Print] Why? To Get there, I need to: Priority
Super Serious (not) Lego Minifig Scale model of our current house, possibly with cute little furniture. Something inside me.. about representing reality.  Its why I do video as well. Figure out how to print large prints without warping. C5
An iPhone case
4s_preview_tinycard
Because then I can print customized cases for my friends and love on them.  Q has already requested a Dragonball Z case. Get better at exact sizes, large model heat shrinkage, and printing large prints without warping. B3
Lego-compatible Blocks
3520480987_710d573c8d_o_preview_tinycard
Because I’d like to incorporate lego nubs on my models, so they are cool. Work on wall widths and flow rates, print some calibration pieces that “ought” to stick together, and work on bed lift B2
Super Action Figure
Jason_Welsh_action-4_preview_tinycard
For my nephew Cam, and for my inner 8-y-o. Just make time to print a LOT of prints.  And precision printing as well. C4
Pendant thingies Because its something my wife can doctor up and make into cool stuff. Already there.  Just need some design work in Sketchup. Which means I need a design from my wife of what the border should look like. Q1
Have things figured out enough so that Brandon and Doug can print their printer parts. I like being of service and enabling people to investigate cool technologies Large print bed lifting and precision. B1.5

So What is Next? (Given unlimited time)

  1. Play with their 0.6 ratio default, +/- for More or Less ooze. Figure out where the parts DONT fit, and where they DON’T stay together, and go halfway.
  2. Double check bed leveling and clearance.
  3. Print in 0.3mm instead of 0.4mm for a bit.
  4. Do some Pendants so that I have a sense of accomplishment.
  5. Print some connector parts, get the connections worked out.
  6. Retry the Lego’s after connectors are connecting.
  7. Retry the iPhone Case – with skirt, with raft?, add hairspray, foam core heat shielding, no scaling – measure – apply scaling and retry
  8. Retry a 2” or 3” print, try to figure out bed lift.  (Skirt, raft?, hairspray, heat shielding)
  9. Take over the world.

Make it so, #1.   

3D Printer: Solidoodle: Day #1

I received my Solidoodle 2 Pro yesterday.    I’ll spare the unboxing video.. suffice it to say, no instructions, but I knew that.  The instructions are online at http://www.solidoodle.com/start-here/ 

I had trouble with the print drivers at first.  I gave up, and switched to a laptop (the laptop that will go with the 3d printer to work when it goes) and it worked fine there.

Here are my first four prints (from left to right)

2014-01-15 09.38.40

  1. I didn’t have the printer homed correctly.   Ie, the printer thought it was at 0,0, but really it was at 100,50 or something.. so as it printed, it would hit the physical limit, and throw the print head off, and each successive layer moved out further.  
  2. I didn’t trim the ooze of plastic from the print head before it started printing, and that little strand of filament bunched up on the build plate.. which made an obstacle for the print head to bump into.. and then the build popped up off the plate.
  3. The build popped up off the plate during printing.
  4. Having borrowed my wife’s $18 Hairspray (she’s getting me cheaper hairspray today), I finally got a good print.   Thank you beautiful wife

The print is a request from my nephew Iman (@PokeIman_Master) .. it’s a Legend of Zelda Tri-Force.  This was done at 0.3mm resolution (the 3rd roughest).. you can see some of the lines don’t quite meet.   Its not 100% solid.. I used a 10%? 20%? honeycomb fill pattern on the inside.  Supposedly took 16cm of filament.. 21 minute print time, probably $0.20 of material.   I think I’ll be doing the same print again at 0.2mm after I do some calibration prints.

The print quality as compared to the Makerbot2 at LVL1 .. not as good, fer sure.  It might be the table I have it on (it shakes while printing), it might be the speed the printheads are travelling at, etc – there’s some tuning to be done.     Its technically the same print nozzle size, I should be able to improve quality.

I’m a wee bit excited.   It’s a good thing I’m not working from home today, I wouldn’t be working.   As it is, I need to stop writing this at get back to being billable.

First Foam-Core Build!

imageimage

  • Doing a 45 degree bevel edge is hard and sloppy.  Easier to go with two separate pieces and miter them.   (If those are even the correct words)
  • Gluerunner is a short term solution.  Really need pins to hold things together, especially around large empty spaces like doors at the edge of a wall.
  • I don’t have fine motor skills.. the model is very awkward for me to work with.  AND the furniture doesn’t stay put yet.. would need some kind of silly putty sticky rubber goo ball tacky .. yes, that’s what it was called. tack.
  • I don’t think I like it enough to proceed with this medium.

I think I am going to go for a 3D print of the walls for the next iteration.  I need to learn how to

  • slice up the solid so that I have 4” x 4” pieces or so (can max do 5” on the short dimension)
  • but slice it in a way that it can connect with itself
  • slice it vertically so that I have two pieces (probably one with the windows and up, and the other from the sill downwards)
  • also in a way that it can connect with itself.

Or, maybe I’m done with it.  The easiest thing is to only have the virtual version. 

  • The furniture stays where I tell it to.
  • I can do a virtual walk through
  • It looks very pretty

Here’s a render from SweetHome3D overhead:

s2

And here’s a POV in the kitchen:

s1

The actual model when you are working with it:

image

Not sure where I’m going from here.  I think the next step is a class on Sketchup on Nov 5th (Tuesday) at LVL1.   Redraw the plan in sketchup (very easy, there’s a tutorial on how to do interior house stuff from a CAD layout) and do something with large solids intersecting others to create slices, like this:

image

My First 3D print!

imageThanks to some email, a kind member showed me how to use (and clean) the Makerbot, and I got my first print!

Ok, the size is a bit off.  The full thing is supposed to be 20cm wide, I got 3cm.  I’ll have to work on that.  Here’s the original: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8560

But more importantly, I learned about:

  • Unloading and reloading filament using the modified spring loaded extruder mod thingy
  • How to take apart the heads, the places where filament usually gets jammed
  • Snipping the ends off the filament when it looks grody
  • Balancing the bed using the secret thingamajiggy tool
    • The center of the bed is higher than the edges, there is such a thing as too tight, and then not tight enough, and this is within a mm, so use the thingamajiggy
  • Cleaning the bed
  • Spraying the bed with hairspray to maintain tackiness
  • ABS – heated bed, PLA – not
  • ABS – 220, PLA – something lower (I haven’t done PLA yet)

Furthermore, it looks like I’ll be downtown every Tuesday (I’m signed up to be a Mentor for Code Louisville), I’ll have plenty of time to go by there and do some printing.

Excited!

Making a 3D print of the interior of my house

imageA project I’ve always been kicking around (ever since I bought my first mobile home in 2000) is to create a scale model of the space I live in.

  • In 2000, I did it with graph paper and cut-out pieces of cardboard to represent furniture.
  • In 2007, I did it with Lego’s.  I wish I still had a picture of it, but they got lost somewhere in Photobucket.  land.  
  • In 2008, I used Sketchup to plan our Kitchen remodel.

Well, the urge came back up again – and this time, the other urge is to use a 3D printer to print out either the model, or the furniture which goes into the model, or both.

Research

So I started researching.   Here are the nuggets I’ve learned:

  • Sweet Home 3D makes wonderful 3D models of the interiors of houses.
    • It only exports to OBJ format
    • The models it generates are non-manifold.
    • The furniture it places tend to be non-manifold.
  • Most 3D print software reads STL.   Or so I thought.
    • Turns out that’s still mostly true;  many of them convert to “GCODE”, but Makerbots use something else called “X3G”.
  • Meshlab can read in, and write out, many different formats, and can detect non-manifold edge problems.
    • It crashes pretty often.
    • It has code which can be used to fix meshes, but I don’t know to use it yet.
  • Netfabb Private can read in STL files and do some mesh repair work.
    • Some of the sweetHome3D outputs are too complicated for it.
    • Very juicy program. If I keep doing this, I might buy their pro version. 
    • Netfabb Cloud fixes even more stuff. 
  • If you’re looking for some frickin’ cool math, PolyMender is pretty neat:
    • Imagine filling a model with 2^N little squares.
    • Draw the model, filling in the squares
    • Just using the squares, recreate the model.
    • Its garunteed to be manifold.
    • The output was somewhat choppy for my purposes though; and the resulting files when given enough resolution (N=8,9) were too large for the 3D print software.
  • Sketchup is no longer part of Google, but still has a free editor.
    • To which you can add an extension (.rbz) to Import/Export to STL.
    • However, it can generate surfaces with problems.  Not necessarily Manifold problems.
    • But if you take care while editing your model, these problems are the types that can be automatically fixed by Netfabb.
  • Repetier-Host is a program used to control Solidoodle’s and several other 3D printers.
    • It will detect Manifold and intersection problems
    • It will run Slic3r to generate G-Code to drive a printer
    • You can view the resulting G-Code and get a feeling of overhangs, support material, infill, etc.
  • The List of 3D printers

The end result is, while I’ve got a pretty decent rendition of the house in Sweet Home 3D, it is far too difficult to convert it into a 3D print at this time.

Plan B.  Using Foam Core Board.

Check out this video:

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4UchgSDeCA&w=448&h=252&hd=1]
Captions are Captives

Its about furniture building, but what I’m thinking is, I would use the technique to build the model, and then use 3D printing to create a framework so that I can assemble the different floors of the model into a house (think spacers, building a framework to nest other components, etc).

I would also use 3D printing to print out some of the more interesting furniture (though, for square things, I’d just use Origami).

The advantage here is I can then take pictures of textures and glue them appropriately – and given the speed and cost of 3D printing, its probably cheaper.

About that 3D Printer

I was all excited, and about buy myself a Solidoodle 2 – however, somebody had once mentioned the local hackerspace LVL1 to me.   I decided to go check them out.    Separate blog post on that.   Chances are, I’ll probably get a membership to them instead*, and use their printers.  And possibly some of their other stuff. 

*POINT: Don’t need a membership to use their resources.  They are very proud of that.  However, given that everybody likes 3D printing, the times when they are open to non-members = contention for use of the 3D printers, and they are 20 miles from home, so a membership will ease the access part of the equation.